Case study 04

DOAB: handloom you can trust

A slow-fashion saree label that bought straight from artisans, paid them fairly, and told buyers exactly what they were getting.

Timeline
Jun 2024 to Dec 2025
Platform
Shopify, Instagram, exhibitions
Role
Co-founder
Owned
Brand, packaging, store, social
DOAB: sarees made by hand, sold straight from the makers
DOAB: sarees made by hand, sold straight from the makers

Overview

DOAB was a slow-fashion saree label I co-founded with my best friend, Priyanka. The idea was simple: buy straight from artisans in Jaipur, Lucknow and Bengal, pay them fairly, and tell buyers exactly who made each saree and how. Doab means the land between two rivers. Ours were the Ganga and the Yamuna, whose plains hold much of North India's handloom.

I ran the brand, from the name, logo and palette to the photography, the Shopify store and the voice. Priyanka ran sourcing, customers, influencers and marketing, though we crossed into each other's work all the time. We ran it for eighteen months, from June 2024 to December 2025, and this page follows one question through all of it: how do you make trust visible?

The problem

Most buyers can't tell real handloom from a copy, and the maker gets paid last.

Buyers pay handloom prices for machine-made copies because they can't tell the two apart. At the other end, the artisans who make the real thing earn very little while retailers keep most of the margin. We wanted to fix both ends at once: buy only from makers, pay them properly, use only natural fabric and dye, and teach buyers enough to trust what they were getting.

10
manufacturers interviewed
50
customers interviewed
₹1k to 10k
what buyers spend on a saree
ModernStyleTraditional
Affordable, modern · the gap
DOAB
Premium, modern
SutaMulyaHima Agrima
Affordable, traditional
Mostly unbranded market stock
Premium, traditional
FabIndiaOkhaiAhilya
₹1,000Price₹10,000+
Where the handloom brands sit on price and style, and the gap DOAB took.

Research

Two in three weaver households earn under ₹5,000 a month

The numbers behind the pay gap are stark. India's last handloom census counted about 31 lakh households working in handloom, and 67% of weaver households earned less than ₹5,000 a month. The makers we interviewed said the same thing in their own words: the craft is fine, the pay isn't.

Source: Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms (2019), Fourth All India Handloom Census 2019–20, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.

The law protects handloom, the market doesn't

On paper, weavers are already protected. India has a law meant to shield traditional handloom from powerlooms and mills, yet machine-made copies are still sold as handloom, and most of the buyers we interviewed couldn't tell them apart. That gap, between what's real and what buyers can see, became our brief.

Source: The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985, Government of India.

Two makers we designed for

To keep the makers in every decision, two personas stand in for the six block printers and four chikankari and zardozi artisans we interviewed: Rajeev, a block printer in Bagru, and Akbar, a chikankari artisan in Lucknow.

R
Rajeev Chhipa
Block printer
Bagru, Rajasthan
Craft
Hand block printing, natural dyes
Line
Family business, several generations
Frustration
Retailers set the price. The printer gets what's left.
Wants
Steady orders at a fair rate, and his name on the work.
A
Akbar
Chikankari artisan
Aminabad, Lucknow
Craft
Chikankari hand embroidery
Line
Ancestral craft, learned at home
Frustration
Months of work sold as anonymous stock.
Wants
Buyers who know what they're paying for.
Rajeev and Akbar, the two maker personas.

What buyers asked for

On the other side, 50 customer interviews told us what buyers wanted: light cotton and linen sarees they could wear every day, between ₹1,000 and ₹10,000, and the story of who made them and how.

Process

From idea to buyer

Every saree followed the same path

With makers and buyers mapped, every saree followed the same path, from forecasting what to make to putting it in front of a buyer. Exhibitions brought in most of our sales, but we built the online side too, because we wanted DOAB to grow into an e-commerce brand.

Making it
1Trend forecasting
What was selling, what wasn't, and what fit our principles. The principles came first.
2Design
Each saree designed in Adobe Illustrator and Canva, from inspiration boards.
3Find the makers
IndiaMART and similar sites, makers' own websites, and offline markets.
4Meet them halfway
Our designs on their existing equipment and patterns, to bring minimum orders down. Plus a few of their best-sellers, to test at exhibitions.
5Check the sample
Does it work? Is the fabric pure? Does it fit the brand?
Passed: order placed
Failed: sent back to the maker
Selling it
Exhibitions
Most of our sales
One or two a month in upscale residential societies across Delhi NCR. The full range, in people's hands.
Instagram
Built for the long run
Block prints first, our strongest product. Barter collaborations with creators chosen for their audience, returning 4 to 5x. DMs and the Instagram shop sold better than the Shopify store.
Word of mouth
Repeat and referred
Repeat orders from past customers, and friends and family.
Making it, then selling it. Hover a step.

The range

About fifty sarees, each fabric matched to its craft

Sarees made sense because one size fits everyone, so less stock goes unsold. Over eighteen months the range grew to about fifty, and we matched each fabric to the craft it carries best: light Bengal cottons and a softer cotton-linen blend for block prints, pure linen for kantha, silks for kalamkari and dabu, and just one or two organza sarees at a time, at around ₹15,000. The figure breaks it down fabric by fabric.

~50sarees in the range
Online: mostly block printsExhibitions: the full range
Hover a fabric.
Cotton
From Bengal
Mulmul
Very light handwoven cotton. Block printed.
Mulmul tissue
A finer mulmul saree from Bengal.
Cotton khadi
Handspun, handwoven cotton from Bengal.
Linen
Two kinds
Cotton-linen blend
Softer and more durable than pure linen. Block printed.
Pure linen
A little stiffer, which makes it a good base for kantha embroidery.
Silk
Printed and embroidered
Modal, Chanderi and Maheshwari silk
Mostly block, kalamkari and dabu prints.
Silk organza
Zardozi and chikankari, around ₹15,000. Only one or two pieces at a time, because the token price was high.
Where the crafts come fromJaipur · Dabu, Sanganeri and ajrakh block printsLucknow · Chikankari and zardoziBengal · Kantha, jamdani, and the cottons
The range, fabric by fabric, and the craft each one carries. Hover a fabric.

The brand

Indigo, taken back

The brand had to be as honest as the product. Mulmul, linen and indigo were each prized before colonial trade, and each suffered under it. Indigo became a symbol of forced farming, so we made it our base colour to take it back.

Before
Under colonisation
At DOAB
Mulmul
Bengal's fine cotton. Two thousand years ago Pliny complained Rome was losing its gold to India for it.
Colonial trade swapped it for cheap machine-made cotton. The skill for the finest grades was lost.
Our launch fabric, from weavers in Bengal.
Linen
One of the oldest fabrics in the world, around 5,000 years. Lasts for decades and resists bacteria on its own.
Pushed aside by mass-produced cotton and later by synthetics.
Our second fabric, for the North's heat.
Indigo
Named after India: the Greeks called the dye indikón, “from India”, because this is where the world bought it.
Under colonial planters, farmers were forced to grow it. Indigo became a symbol of exploitation.
Our base colour, to reclaim it.
Three materials, before colonisation, during it, and at DOAB.

Two rivers and three words

The mark builds on that: an indigo square with river lines above and below for the Ganga and the Yamuna. Beside it, the wordmark sets DOAB in Garet next to दोआब in Devanagari, and the tagline, Craft | Culture | Couture, names three things in the order a buyer meets them.

The DOAB logo
DOABदोआब
The mark
1Indigo ground
The dye India gave its name to, used as the base colour to take it back.
2River lines above and below
The Ganga and the Yamuna. The name sits between them, the way the doab does.
3The name in two scripts
DOAB in Garet beside दोआब in Devanagari, in the wordmark.
The tagline, in the order a buyer meets it
CraftThe hands that make it
CultureWhere it comes from
CoutureWhat you wear
Written as Craft | Culture | Couture. Three words that start with the same sound, so it's easy to remember.
What each part of the mark stands for, and the three words of the tagline.

One job for each colour

Each colour has one job: indigo for the mark, teal for anything you press, and marigold as the accent once the eco-print line began. Everything else is set in Cormorant Garamond.

The mark
The DOAB logo
DOABदोआब
River lines for the two rivers, the name in English and Hindi.
Colour
Indigo #043B59
The logo. The dye India gave its name to.
Teal #0F3947
Buttons, badges, anything you press.
River #5A82A3
The lines in the mark.
Marigold #E3A13A
Accent, from the eco-print line.
Ink #123845
Text, titles, prices.
Paper #FCFCFC
The page.
Tagline
Craft  |  Culture  |  Couture
The mark, the palette and the tagline.

The same brand at the door

I designed the packaging, washcare labels and business card as one set, so the brand a buyer found online or at a stall was the same one that arrived at their door. The washcare labels mattered most, because handloom and natural dyes need gentler washing than machine-made cloth. Orders went out by India Post, which cost us less and cut the carbon of every delivery.

DOAB packaging
Packaging
DOAB washcare labels
Washcare labels
The back of the DOAB business card
The back of the business card
The packaging, the washcare labels and the back of the business card

Experiments

Eco-printing with festival flowers

We kept trying new ideas alongside the main range, and eco-printing was the second experiment we ran. Temples throw out marigolds after festivals, and eco-printing steams the colour straight from the petals onto the cloth, so no two sarees match. We made three patterns from one flower and recycled 5 kg of flower waste before we closed.

Eco-printing: the process and the finished sarees

Selling it

Exhibitions where our buyers lived

Most of the range sold in person. We ran one or two exhibitions a month in upscale residential societies across Delhi NCR, because that's where our buyers were: well-off women, roughly 25 to 50. A stall also let the fabric make its own case. Mulmul is far lighter than even linen, so light that a photo can't show it, and people understood that the moment they held a saree.

DOAB at exhibitions
DOAB at exhibitions in Delhi NCR

₹8,000 on an average day

On an average exhibition day we made about ₹8,000. Our best single day made ₹40,000, at the Noida Flower Festival.

₹4,000
Slowest day
₹8,000
Average day
₹40,000
Best day
Noida Flower Festival
Sales per exhibition day: the slowest, the average, and our best.

Reach alone didn't turn into orders

Online, who you reached mattered more than how many. Most of our influencer videos paid off, but our biggest reel hit 4.3 million views and barely moved sales, because the person in it had a large audience, just not one that buys handloom sarees. Reach only helps when the face in the video is someone your buyers already follow and trust.

One reel
4.3M
views
Our biggest by far. Most reels stayed well under that.
Who it reached, and who buys
Watched it
The endorser's followers, there for the face, not the fabric.
Buys a DOAB saree
Someone spending ₹1,000 to 10,000 on handloom, who wants to know who made it.
Two different rooms. The reel filled the wrong one.
Sales
Barely moved
Plenty of views and messages, almost no orders.
The lesson
Pick the face for the buyer, not the reach. The person endorsing the product should be someone your buyer already listens to.
One reel, two different audiences, and what it did to sales.

The store

Story first, then the shop

The store had the same lesson to learn. Its first version opened straight onto a product grid, so I rebuilt it to lead with the story, then the process, then the shop, and added accordions on each product page for fabric, care and the artisan. The bounce rate fell by about 20%.

Colours
Indigo
#043B59
Teal
#0F3947
Ink
#123845
Marigold
#E3A13A
Paper
#FCFCFC
Mist
#EBECEE
Danger
#B3261E
Type
WordmarkGaret
DOAB
Everything elseCormorant Garamond
Featured Products
Account pagesInter
Sign in

Impact

Eighteen months, two founders, no outside money, and 20 to 30 orders a month. Three results stand out.

0%
returns
20%
of customers came back
20 to 25
artisans we bought from directly

The one I trust most is the zero. Nobody sent a saree back, which tells me the product pages described exactly what arrived, and buyers said so themselves in messages like these.

Customer reviews sent to DOAB as Instagram messages
What customers told us, in their own Instagram messages

Next phase

We closed in December 2025. We were bootstrapped, the money ran out, and Priyanka left to prepare for an MBA. Had we kept going, eco-print would have followed the festival calendar, with a counter on the homepage tracking flower waste against a 100 kg goal.

Reflection

DOAB taught me that design reaches well past the screen. The brand lived in a parcel, a stall, a caption and a product page, and every one of them had to tell the same story about where the fabric came from.

It also showed me which part of the work I wanted to keep. Of everything I ran, I kept coming back to the store, the packaging and the product pages, and that is what led me to product design.

THE END.

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